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 General Tips

It's hard to shift into second gear. Can I fix this problem, and how ?

This is a pretty common problem with older Mk3’s. It’s also one of the hardest to repair. It actually requires the complete removal and dismantling of the entire transmission. This also requires special tools and is really hard to do.
However, switching your tranmission fluid to Redline MT90 or MTL,  could also cure the problem. Not immediately, but within a month or so.
If this really doesn't work, then you should try to find out if fixing, or replacing it with a used transmission, is going to be worth it. You could do the fix yourself, but it's a very hard process.

My hatch is leaking on my MkIII. There is water in my spare tire well. Where is the water coming from ?

This is also a common problem with MkIII’s. The most probable place for the water to be leaking in is from the taillights. It usually drips in from the top seal, and then into the hatch. You can stop the leaking by removing the taillights, and putting a bead of caulk around them. This will guarantee a really tight seal.
Another possible leak is the rear wiper motor hole. The rubber gasket gets brittle over time, and will leak into the hatch cover. Replacing that gasket will definitely fix the problem.

How can I see that  I have a BHG, or Blown Head Gasket?

Ok, here are some really typical symptoms for a BHG:

1.         Gradual loss of coolant.

2.         Gurgling underneath the dash.

These symptoms are actually common after a radiator flush or re-fill, or if one of the hoses is slowly leaking.

3.         Overflowing overflow bottle after hard driving

4.         Temperature increase when putting load on the engine for long periods of time. (going up a hill)

The last two symptoms are almost certain signs that something really bad is going on.
Anyway, if you do suspect a BHG, get a Block Tester ASAP. This is basically just a solvent which will test for exhaust gases in your coolant, and it is not very expensive (+/-$50.00).
A BHG means that coolant is being exposed to the combustion chamber. So, this is a pretty conclusive test. When doing the test, coolant is NOT supposed to enter the testing apparatus!

I have a BHG ! How much is this going to cost me to fix, and what type of gasket should I use now?

First, all depends on how bad your blown head gasket is. You'll probably need to machine the head and/or the block. This way you can give the new gasket a clean and smooth surface to seal with. Also, check for warpage of the block/head. If excessive, shave it down to make it straight. You can best do this job by the dealer, or by a mechanic you trust. They need to have access to a very GOOD machine shop, as the quality of the machining will determine how successful the gasket will be.
Typical costs to do the head gasket are always between $1000-2000, depending on the amount of machine work done. And also depending on what other things were replaced in the process. If trying to fix a BHG yourself, be prepared to miss your car for at least a couple weeks.
Anyway, the best thing is to have the work done by a professional.
For the gasket type :  actually, all depends on what you’re planning to do with your car. If you want to take it above 300hp, one would recommend a metal head gasket and of course the aftermarket head bolts (ARP).
If you’re planning to go easy on the hp’s, you could however still use a stock Toyota gasket. It has now been redesigned and has a high success rate. Remember to torque to 65-70 ft/lbs though.
A well detailed write up of the head gasket issue with MkIII Supras can be found on the SONIC site at: http://www.supras.com/sogi/generations/mk3_pmtn.html  

Metal Head Gaskets. How are they more effective? What are the different types ? How much do they cost? Where to get them?

Metal Head Gaskets, or MHG’s are more effective at sealing the head because they incorporate a 'bead' around the combustion chamber. MHG’s are also a popular choice for those who needed to machine their head or block. This is because they come in different thicknesses, to be able to restore the original compression ratio. Most common brands for MHG’s are HKS and GReddy. They also come in three different types : a bead type, a grommet type, and a stopper type. Ranging from worst to best in the attempt to seal correctly,  and from least expensive to most expensive.
More information on the HKS gaskets can be found at http://web.hksusa.com/headgaskets.html
GReddy also offers MHGs and information on them can be found at: http://www.greddy.com/engine.html
For a more in depth discussion of metal head gaskets (and the head gasket issue in general) check out SONIC's excellent write up at: http://www.supras.com/sogi/generations/mk3_pmtn.html  

What can I do to make my NA Supra faster?

A quick and dirty list of mods to do, in the order of easy-ness and effectiveness would probably look like this for all MkII and MkIII NA Supras.

Easy bolt ons:

•          Larger cat back exhaust. (between 2.5" and 2.75")

•          K&N FIPK or HKS Super Mega Flow air filter.

•          AFM Mod

•          Thermostat Mod

•          Headers. (PaceSetter, Jim Hall, or Doug Thorley)

•          Aftermarket Ignition (Crane, MSD, or Jacobs) (bump timing up)

•          Increasing Timing.

More work:

•          Port matching intake, throttle body, exhaust.

•          Port and polish head.

•          Lightweight flywheel.

•          Shave the head to increase compression.

•          Adjustable cam gears.

•          Custom cams?

What size exhaust should I get for my Supra? Is bigger always better?

To know how big your exhaust should be, there’s a first very important difference to consider : is your car normally aspirated (NA) or a turbo ?
-          For NA cars you’d not want an exhaust that is TOO free flowing. The engine needs a little back-pressure to do the job efficiently.
-          For a turbo, the primary goal is to have the most free flowing muffler possible.
Although increasing the size of the exhaust only plays a part in this to a certain extent. Generally, these guidelines hold true for most cars: (results may vary)
For NA cars, an exhaust between 2.5" and 2.75" will give you the best results. The 2.75" exhaust will take a little away from your bottom end, but will return it on the top end. A straight through muffler is PROBABLY not wanted, as it will be too restrictive, however a Turbo muffler usually does very well. If you are putting out more than 300 hp, a 3" exhaust could provide a little more power.
For Turbo cars, an exhaust between 2.75" and 3" usually works best. Although some go larger, the gains are very slim, unless you got very large amounts of HP. Remember: the muffler should be as free flowing as possible.

Where can I find a new engine for my Supra ?

Well, here’s a small list of websites to check out. Prices may vary from one supplier to another. Also, warrantees and shipping costs may be different too. I’d suggest you try calling all of them, so you would get the best deal.
Usually, the engines come with around 30k miles and have a limited warrantee.

•          Midwest Engine Sales Inc. - http://www.midwest-engine.com/  

•          SOKO - http://www.soko.com/  

•          Rising Sun Engines - http://www.rsengines.com/index.html  

•          K.Wantanbe - 1-800-592-8262

•          Japanese Engine Exchange - http://members.aol.com/simonsez6/japindex.htm  

How can I best clean my engine bay, so that it looks real nice and shiny ?

Actually, cleaning up the engine bay doesn’t require any special tools or products.
Three things are really needed to clean your engine compartment. That’s some elbow grease,  some metal polish and A LOT of rags. You should work  from one side to the other, cleaning everything you can reach. By removing anything you can, you’ll be able to reach even more. Do this basic cleaning with the simple green (wetted) down rags. If you like your engine to have a really shiny look, use the metal polish on all metal parts and rub them thouroughly. Do this until your rag comes away absolutely clean. Watch out ! It can really take some time for all of it to shine the way you’d like it to.
These techniques are generally safe on all outside parts of the engine. However, here’s a piece of advice : DO NOT try and clean the inside of the AFM (there are some really sensitive sensors inside the AFM, so you don’t want to touch them)  or any other electronics.
The area between the valve covers can easily be cleaned out by using a vacuum cleaner.
This really is a time consuming job, and it may take you several days to get the engine bay spotless.
You could also use an engine degreaser with a high pressure spray. And, although this is a very effective method for removing greasy deposits on the engine, please make sure to cover up all the parts of the engine which don't like water. Or you will be sorry that you even started cleaning your engine bay!